This month, we attended a number of NYFW FW24 shows which is a great way to see the upcoming collections from an array of designers that are on our radar. We kicked off the season with New York Men's Day - NYMD on Feb 9th that presented its 21st season of 8 designers between the morning and afternoon session at Location05 in Hudson Yards.
NYMD | TERRY SINGH
We started off with Terry Singh's presentation with his namesake collection for his menswear brand that launched in 2014 and is based in NYC. Terry was raised in NYC and began working in the fashion industry in the '70s. He also took some time to go to India where he immersed himself into Indian culture as well as meditation. He returned to the city with his shift in how he approached his life and wanted to take what he learned to bring it to make his mark in fashion.
Terry feels that, "this collection resonated with the narrative of my odyssey, visually manifesting the metamorphosis that defines who I am today."
The collection included a number of pieces that included blazers, outerwear, structured skirts, intricate fabrications and coordinates. It was a rich tapestry that allowed us to see where menswear as well as genderless looks can be elevated for gala and soiree looks.
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | PG 98 Terry Singh
NYMD | Y.CHROMA
The 4 designers that presented their collection in the morning of NYMD, showcased collections that included suiting and eveningwear. We were also excited to check out Y.Chroma, founded by Max Israel! This brand was founded in 2023 in Lisbon, Portugual.
The collection is focused on male midlife re-invention with a customer base of 40+ and want to wear vibrant hues. The European crafstmanship was evident in seeing this collection and we truly enjoyed the unique textiles that were included in this show and still presented a youthful collection that we could totally see being worn by those that are outside of the intended demographic. We love how they embrace midlife reinvention and the universal appeal of this brand!
PHOTOGRAPHY Courtesy | PG 101 Y.Chroma
BACKSTAGE PRABAL GURUNG
We left Location05 to pop out to cover Backstage at Prabal Gurung who showed at the Starrett-Lehigh Building. Being backstage allows you to see how the inspiration for the designer's vision comes together for the hair, makeup, and nail teams.
The inspiration behind Prabal Gurung's comes from the loss in his home country of Nepal where he created silhouettes that offered a balance of warmth and melancholy through tactile fabrics that were sculpted and ethereal.
“It was to give into grief,” Gurung said backstage. “That was a new thing for me, but I decided to give in simply because that was the only way that I could go through it, which took me back to my father’s side of the family — which I normally have stayed away from, to be completely honest — and it led to these images and everything. It was just so cathartic and so healing, so I brought this to life because it gave me comfort.”
To merge the gravity of the somberness of the inspiration of the show, there was still a balance with his signature feminine styles by incorporating fringe and drapery. These ethereal elements gave a sense of uplifting ones spirit.
The apparel that hit the runway was supported by a glam team that worked with the models, Super Models such as Precious Lee, and celebs such as Sarita Choudhury (Homeland, Blindspot, And Just Like That...). We had the pleasure to chat with Celebrity Nail Artist, Gina Edwards who is the Kiss Product Inc U.S/Canada Brand Ambassador and Lead Nail Artist for this show. In addition to her role with these products, she has worked with Chanel Beauty on a Valentine's Campaign, she was the manicurist for Nicole Kidman for her Balenciaga Ambassador imagery, and was the manicurist for Vera Wang for her CFDA Award to name a few.
We wanted to find out how she extended Prabal's vision into the nails that worn by the models who were part of the runway show.
ATHLEISURE MAG: We always love going backstage to see the magic come together and we've been watching the models as they're in prep to hit the runway. We know that you used acrylic nails to create this look. Can you tell us more about this?
GINA EDWARDS: For the show, we used these acrylics in nude in XXL and we stiletto’d it out to be coffin shaped. We just created the color over it to give it that exclusivity that is the theme of this show. The look whether it’s the red or the silver is a bit of a moonstone/cat eye effect. When you look at it one way, it has one color and then another, you see the other one. It’s a bit of a haunting effect and that ties into the makeup that has that smokey and sultry look to it. So the nails really add to that vibe. It’s amazing to see how everything comes together. The designer has a vision and he explained it to the glam team of hair, makeup, and nails. So we came up with this idea and everyone loves it and along the way, you tweak it to get it to where you see it today.
AM: How long did it take for you to arrive to what we’re seeing on the runway for tonight’s show as it’s a collaboration between Prabal's vision of where he sees it and how you’re interpreting the theme?
GE: Well, there was about 2 weeks when you’re having the conversations and when you land on what you think will work and then you get the products in and to be able to create what has been decided on. Once you select the teams that will actually execute it, I would say it’s about 5 days.
The elusive nail which was the theme for the show was inspired by the experimental use of fabrics in Prabal's collection. The magnetic, cat-eye finish on the KISS nails really merge that eccentric and elusive element together to create that haunting look which is in keeping with this collection which is known as, Fragmented Memories.
AM: Oh wow and there’s so much work to build the nails!
GE: Oh yeah, I mean, shaping takes the most time! I mean shape is everything when it comes to the nail. You have to shape the nail, look at, then look at it from the birds eye view. It looks one way when you see it from one standpoint and then another and then, this nail isn’t on you so it’s a lot of work to really articulate the nail.
You can get The Magnetic Effect Manicure at home which is one of the hottest trends from the runway. Using KISS Gel Fantasy Magnetic collection in style Ruler or imPRESS Color Press-On Manicure in style Red Velvet you too can rock these stunning nails from Prabal’s show in minutes. These ready-to-wear styles are easy to apply and last up to a week.
HOW GINA EDWARDS CREATED THE CUSTOM-DESIGNED RUNWAY LOOK:
• Step 1: Select and size KISS Salon Acrylic Natural Nails in style Crystal and shape to stiletto
Natural Nails in style Crystal and shape to stiletto
• Step 2: Apply nail glue to belly of the nail and natural nail, then press down gently, repeat x10 nails
• Step 3: Apply a coat of your favorite magnetic color and use magnet on both sides parallel to the nail. Cure each finger for 90 seconds
• Step 4: Apply second coat and use the magnet again to see the glass like effect on the nails. Cure for 90 seconds.
• Step 5: Add top gel coat and cure for 60 seconds.
PHOTOGRAPHY | PG 102 + 103 Go Runway.com
After spending a few hours at Prabal Gurung's backstage courtesy of Gina Edwards and the KISS Products team, we made our way back to Location05 for the second session of NYMD and the designers that were showing during this presentation.
NYMD | THE SALTING
Designers Michael Ward & Manel Garcia Espejo founded The Salting, a menswear/womenswear brand in 2018 and is based in NYC. With their second presentation at NYMD as well as being recently inducted into the CFDA as interim members, they are carried in approximately 20 locations in the US and Canada including Bergdorf Goodman.
They're fabrications are globally sourced with sustainable mills and all of their tailoring is done in the US. This design duo has an extensive background in fashion design in the luxury space.
This season's collection's inspiration is On The Waterfront and has an aesthetic that honors longshoremen and dockworkers with its use of buffalo checks, plaid, tweeds, chalk stripes and more. Even their sportswear showcases their tailored DNA and we enjoyed their classic pea coats and other structured pieces.
PAS UNE MARQUE
In 2018, Sean Coutts founded menswear label, Pas Une Marque in Paris. The brand's entire manufacturing takes place in Peru. Within each of their collections, they work with a number of artists to tell their brand story. Printemps, the first department store in Paris, carries the brand. We loved the outerwear that was included in this show and can't wait to see more from this brand.
We had a bit of snow that hit NYC, but with 2 shows that we had been looking forward to from 2 Project Runway alums, we were ready to be dazzled by their NYFW FW24 collections.
BISHME CROMARTIE
The afternoon of Feb 13th, we made our way to The Ritz-Carlton New York, NoMad to see Bishme Cromartie's NYFW FW24 presentation. We first learned about Bishme when he competed on Season 17 of Project Runway where he came in 4th. For Season 20 of Project Runway All-Stars, he came back and won! It was amazing to see a number of our favorite designers across the season on this show and the ability to see Bishme push the boundaries of Avante Garde to his self-proclaimed, Street Garde, has been a great evolution.
His brand has been worn on a number of red carpets by Michelle Williams (American Soul, Wrath: A Seven Deadly Sins Story, Kingdom Business) of Destiny's Child, Chloe Bailey (Grown-ish, Swarm, Praise This), and Jennifer Hudson (Cats, The Jennifer Hudson Show, Respect), to name a few.
This presentation had a palette of red, white, and black and spanned from elevated streetwear all the way to red carpet looks during Awards Season.
When asked about where the inspiration from his show came from, he shared, "I further explored my obsession of mixing Streetwear with Avant Garde designs. Striking, feminine and bold shapes paired with a variety of coats, edgy tops, form fitting and dramatic gowns. I continued to define what “Street Garde'' is by staying true to my aesthetic and testing new ideas. I wanted the collection to feel strong, effortlessly sexy, masculine, and feminine at the same time. The collection showcases the Bishme Cromartie woman who is ready for change, constantly on the go and loves to stand out, no matter where she is. This season we are entering the Batrix."
PHOTOGRAPHY | PG 104 - 108 Paul Farkas |
LAURENCE BASSE
We ended our NYFW FW24 shows the evening of Feb 13th with Project Runway alum, Laurence Basse who was a finalist in both Season 15 as well Season 20 for Project Runway All-Stars. We have been a long time fan of her mastery of leatherwork and in seeing her first solo show at The Paramount Building in Times Square, we were thrilled to be able to talk to her in detail about how she got into the industry, her namesake line, her NYFW show, and what we can expect from her as she continues to push the envelope of her brand.
ATHLEISURE MAG: It is such a pleasure to be able to talk with you as I’ve been a fan of your work and aesthetic!
LAURENCE BASSE: Thank you so much, thank you! I really appreciate you having me.
AM: Of course! I have been a fan of yours since I first saw you on Season 15 of Project Runway, and just your artistry, the way you work with leather, your style, and attitude – everything about you is definitely Black Girl Magic.
LB: Oh I’m trying, I’m trying.
AM: Oh no, you are not trying, you are doing!
So you got your start in the industry as a model. You have modeled with BENNETTON, Jean Paul Gautier, and you have been in French Elle as well as Cosmopolitan. You did this for 15 years, what was the moment that you realized you wanted to be a fashion designer.
LB: Well I mean, this is the narrative in the streets, but really, I went to fashion school in Paris before I was even modeling. I started fashion school when I was 17 years old. So from 17 – 22, I was in fashion school and I started modeling when I was in Paris I think 3 years into fashion school. It was just there and I thought, “why not?” I used that to then move to the US and it became a 15 year off and on.
AM: Where did you go to school?
LB: I went to school, my first one was in Normandy called Elisa Lemonnier and then I went to another school in Paris, an art school by the same name at the 12 Arrondissement.
AM: When I first saw you in Season 15 of Project Runway, I was just blown away by what you did throughout that season. What drew you to compete on the show?
LB: You know, let’s just say that I never casted for the show. I never did. I quit modeling, I was in LA, I was bartending, and I had my studio, but I was like, ok, since I didn’t do the designing the way that they are saying which is you get out of school and you go work for a brand, and I didn’t do that. I was modeling, traveling, and living my best life.
So at this point, I was 35, I had started this thing, but how do I go from zero to 50 at least? I had a friend of mine that was a Super Model back in the days in France and she actually reached out to me a year before my season to do the French version of Project Runway in France, and I said, "hell, no! I'm not doing a reality show blah blah blah boom boom boom – not when it comes to designing.”
Time went by and I got an email after that from the US. They told me that they were casting for Project Runway. My first reaction, “hell, no!” I’m not doing this. But my friend was with me and she was like, “Laurence it is a good opportunity and you should do it.” I didn’t say no. I literally waited until the deadline. If the deadline was like Mar. 30th at midnight, I waited until the deadline to submit whatever it was that they were asking me.
Then they called me back. I didn’t know that they had already had a casting in the US. So I thought that I was going in for the casting, but it had already been done. I went straight to the final 2 appointments that they had before they decided on who they wanted to have on the show. I went in and I brought in like 10 pair of clothes and they loved it and after that, they asked me to come in the next day. The next day was a whole hour – hour and a half interview. That’s when they say, ok we know you can sew, we love you, but as far as your personality, they have to figure that out.
I did my interview for a little over an hour and it went well I think. I was good! The lady told me, “Laurence, if you made it this far it means you’re perfect for this show. But If we do not cast you for this season, please come back next season.” I told her, “I won’t be coming back.” If I make it, great and if I don’t, I’m still happy. I literally left the casting and I literally left the casting and I was going to my car in LA and I was like dancing in the parking lot. It was an investment for me. It’s already mine and if not, it’s ok too. Then they called me and that’s how I made it onto the show.
AM: I’m glad that you did because the moment you started creating dynamic pieces and watching how you work with leather beyond what I have seen anyone else do – it was phenomenal to watch. As a fashion stylist and someone who has grown up in this industry from a young age – watching you make leather do things that we don’t think that that fabrication supports usually, I was like, “where did this women come from?” I became obsessed and it was thrilling to see you be a finalist on that season.
LB: Thank you!
AM: And then when it came to Season 20 that aired last year with Project Runway All-Stars, what were you thinking about coming back to this crazy environment of a competition show?
LB: Oh yeah, it’s definitely crazy!
So basically, the first time that I went, I didn’t know what I was expecting. I went in and I thought to myself, I am going to win. There was no other option and then I didn’t win. So I went home and I thought, “what am I going to do now?” But God has other plans. With the show rolling, it just jump started my career. I have just been going ever sense since that. It did a lot of things that were great for me. So when the second time came around, I thought, never again would I do a show like that. Right?
AM: Yeah!
LB: But, the only reason and again, they came back and said, “Laurence, do you want to jump on a call? We’re thinking of doing All-Stars.” I said sure and got on the call. But I wasn’t like, “yay!” I had to pause and think about it. Like I said, it did great for me, they have their own agenda and I went in with my own. Even when I accepted to do it, and I did it because it was All-Stars. It was about the contestants coming back to compete for something bigger. So I was like ok, this can’t hurt me and it can only reboost the machine. So I went in and I remember I said, “my head said that the best position for me to land was to be a runner-up.” Technically, I don’t want to win because I don’t want to be tied into anything.
But my ego, wanted to win the whole thing. The ego is the one that got hurt, but everything happened the way that it was supposed to happen. I did what I wanted to do and it was ok.
AM: Well, you turned out amazing pieces yet again!
LB: I was like, keep playing in my face!
AM: I love it!
So why do you like working with leather? Your mastery of leather is just insane.
LB: Thank you!
Well, I’m self-taught when it comes to leather. But my background is really haute couture, making the dresses and all of the extravagant things that people like to wear. I was like, everyone is doing this – a lot of people are doing it. I wanted to be different. I don’t want to be in the norm. I wanted to know what was out there that I could do and work with that I could separate myself from most designers. So I was thinking about leather for 2 reasons. As a child, when I was younger, leather was – when I would look at people who owned leather, they were rich. It was something that, yes I wanted it. But I couldn’t afford it. Then, before that, I love luxury. All of the stuff that I love when I go to the stores, it gives me a real headache! Because it’s $5,000, $6,000, and $10,000! I’d look at it and I’d say, “I can’t do it!” So I decided let me teach myself how to do this and I am going to do it better and I'm going to do it as a challenge to myself. I thought, “ok, all the stuff that I love the Balmain, Saint Laurent, the Gucci, the Tom Ford – it’s over overpriced,”, but look who’s talking now?
It's overpriced, but I’m going to one day sell my stuff at the same price as those people. I’ll be up there with them and that was the bet to myself. So, then leather when people think about it, they think it’s rigid and that there’s not a lot of what you can do with it. But for me, I was like, I’m going to get in there – me and leather are going to have a talk and we’re going to get to know each other. Now I know leather pretty well and I work it like it’s any kind of fabric. There’s no limitation to it. If you want a wedding dress, I’ll make your wedding dress in leather. If you want a flowy skirt or whatever it is, I just don’t want to put limitations on it.
AM: Well you are a master at it. You work a leather like it’s a silk or a taffeta and before you, I had never seen people treat it that way!
LB: That was the goal.
AM: How would you describe your brand your line. You have a number of NBA athletes and different celebrities that have worn your collection.
LB: Well my line, my line is definitely – it’s not haute couture, I’m not RTW. I’m somewhere in between so it’s a luxury brand catered to strong women and strong men. It’s very – for me it’s normal – but the stuff that I put together, they’re not supposed to exist in the same world. But they work for me, because it’s just an extension of me – female/male, cold/hot, edgy/soft – I just love to mix the two together.
AM: What are 3 core pieces that if someone was purchasing pieces from you for the first time that they would be essentials to have in their closet?
LB: Oh you have to have a classic leather jacket. The classic LB is the one with the shoulders. I have been rocking that one for the past x amount of years. You would think that I have a lot of leather jackets, right?
AM: Oh yeah!
LB: I have probably 3 but I recycle them. I have this one that’s like a Motorcycle Jacket with the shoulders and it’s classic and I love it! So, either that one or a Bomber – whatever classic is to you. A pair of leather gloves, and a jumpsuit!
You don’t even need 3, if you like to have just one, it’s either a leather jacket or a jumpsuit. If you can’t afford it, get a pair of gloves!
AM: There’s a solution and then keep saving your coins to get one of those pieces!
LB: Exactly!
AM: My Co-Founder and I had the pleasure of going to your NYFW FW24 show! My mouth was on the floor throughout the runway show and I even teared up a bit because the craftsmanship of seeing great pieces always transports me.
LB: Thank you!
AM: What was the inspiration behind this collection?
LB: You know, I always tell people that the place I design from it’s I guess a storytelling place, but it’s like I tell my stories by creating. That’s my communication. I don’t sometimes put words into it. I don’t always have a story, but for this one, it started with one piece – a Bulletproof Vest. With everything that is going on in the world, you know – all the crazy stuff, the wars, but if you stay in it, you go crazy. So we still have to find other beautiful things in the world that is going on. So it was a mix of the two. The leather Bulletproof Vest – that’s why I mixed it with the soft and beautiful flowy stuff. I got it from that piece and I just let it flow.
AM: I’m sure it was such a project to undertake, a solo show during NYFW!
LB: Girl, it was insane!
AM: Days leading up to your show, I was on your IG and I could see that there were a lot of moving parts going on. It definitely built up the anticipation, but I know you must have been spending a lot of time getting all those things together.
LB: My God! One day I will tell that story. But we kind of documented everything on film – not everything, because sometimes you don’t think about it. It was by far one of the hardest things that I had ever done. I self-financed it, I had a great team, but me and Mykel, we were both wearing different hats and I had to try and stay kind of zen and to be able to create. I mean, I made all of my samples. There was no team, that’s maybe for next season. But we literally decided because Project Runway All-Stars wrapped in Sept. and technically, we were already at Fashion Week. So I thought, “ok, it doesn’t make sense for me to do a collection in Sept.” But really, if I wanted to wait until I was ready to do it, I should have waited until the following Sept. But then I thought, “no because while things are still hot, I can’t skip Feb.” So we decided that we had 2.5 months to do it. We didn’t know how, we just went by faith. It was like, I believe in you, you believe in me and we just jumped out of the building with no parachute and we hoped that it would land.
AM: What other projects do you have going on now that we can look forward to or that we can keep an eye out for?
LB: Well right now, everything is moving so fast, we are getting our appointments together – so the sales teams so that we can start getting into production and getting into stores. So we will do that in Mar. and we have Market week coming up and April, back thinking about Fashion Week in Sept. So for that, we want to take this to Paris. So the goal is to do Paris Fashion Week and NYFW.
AM: What do you want your legacy to be as you have done a lot and I can only imagine what you will still do with yourself and your brand. But you are a trailblazer and a role model, because there are still not a lot of visible Black people that own luxury brand and especially in the fashion space. That’s something great to see you do unapologetically and in your own style.
LB: Absolutely, like I tell people, it was super important for me growing up in France and even being here, all you hear is people telling us what we can and cannot do and how far we can dream. It’s like when I used to tell people when I was in school to my teachers, they would look at you and roll their eyes. They would tell you to come back down, to be real, and those jobs aren’t for you.
AM: Yup.
LB: And because you said that, that’s why I tell people that I know that I am a Black woman and it’s not going to be easy and that I will have to work 10X harder than the next one because they already have a leg up. I know that and I’m at peace with that. I’m strong. I’m going to knock all of those doors down until I get to where I need to be.
When I went to Italy and they are the kings of leather, how they received and reacted to my work, I looked at their reflection in my eyes and I knew that I had it. I just want my people, or even any people, but especially my people to see me and look at me like, she did it. The hard part of it, I will tell my story and write my book one day about it. I want people to look at me and know that it’s possible. Sometimes, all you need is 1!
I’m not doing it just because I love fashion. I could be ok and I have done a lot and I can be content. But no, I need to continue forward and that's what I want my legacy to be. Because when I have to think of a high end Black designer, I have to do some research and think about it and that’s not normal.
For me, we are fashion.
AM: Absolutely!
LB: Seriously, I look at Christian Dior today, Balmain, and Gucci with the stuff that they are doing now, if you told me 20 years ago that this is where they are going, I would have said you’re dreaming!
AM: 100%
LB: But they’re taking those aesthetics, and we’re not getting credit for it. And then we go and give them our money. I think one of the mistakes I think sometimes we do as Black people when we enter that industry, we set limitations. Money is money wherever it comes from, I don’t care. I’m designing for whoever loves fashion.
I tell people that I am Black everyday, we don’t have to debate about that. But, you need to think about how you move. Hire your people – that is where the power is. Where the money comes from like I don’t care. My clients are everywhere. They’re European, American, African, wherever I don’t care. They love fashion and that is what we’re going to talk about. That is the business model of what everyone is doing. You’re presenting a good or service and then via marketing, you’re able to translate that story; however, the offering is universal.
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | Laurence Basse
Read the FEB ISSUE #99 of Athleisure Mag and see NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FW2024 EDIT in mag.
