PARKER THATCH | IRENE CHEN

Accessories are always that key component of your outfit that enhances elements of your look or your features. They are the pieces that become statements of conversation while also being fun ways to change up your style or reflect your personality in a cetain way! Whether you reach for them first to create your look or you finish it off with those touches, it's always something that we are on the hunt for! We have attended a number of editor previews, have enjoyed seeing items on the runway and beyond and of course, it's always fun scrolling our social feeds for great looks to add to our collections.

Parker Thatch is a luxury accessory brand that has been around since 2009 and we became aware of the brand a few years back. We love that its known for great handbag styles that are chic, has a number of fabrications that it offers, and has a great aesthetic that will never go out of style. When we had the chance to talk with Celebrity Costume Designer Allyson Fanger, she reminded us that not only is it a great handbag line, but they also have fun jewelry as well. After deep diving with the brand, we reached out to Irene Chen, Co-Founder of this line. We knew that she had a phenomenal background as a product developer at Donna Karan and we wanted to know more about how she got into the industry, how she came to designing this line with her husband Matt, and what we need to know about this brand as well as upcoming seasons!

ATHLEISURE MAG: I know your brand has been around for quite awhile, but I love how recently in the last few years how I have seen the videos that you do, the fun assortment, and how you engage with your customers as well as showing off how stylish you are as well. It’s so great to be connected to talk about the brand!

IRENE CHEN: Oh thank you! I’m really excited to chat with you as well as I really appreciate and love what you guys are doing with Athleisure Mag in terms of showing the importance of movement and fashion together. For me, it’s an important element of my life! I’m just so happy to speak with you.

IC: That is part of everything that I honestly so connect with and what we do you know. I feel that there are so many products out there these days and I think that the key is that there are so many people that they don’t feel great about themselves and they are stuck in their homes and they are not doing any kind of movement and I think about the connection of how do you get someone to get up and move so that they can feel good about it and make it really easy for you. I think that’s why I think that what you guys are doing is so cool.

AM: Well thank you!

Before we delve into talking about Parker Thatch and this great accessory brand, can you tell us about your background? You were at Donna Karan, that assortment had those elements and bones for that person who lived a full cycle from studio to office and everything in between. It would be great to know about your background and how you came to the fashion industry.

IC: It was totally one of those weirdo things! When I graduated from college, I went to UCLA, and then I cam back to San Francisco and then I just took a job like most people would out of college in consulting and I did that for about 2 years. Sometimes you look back at things that you did and wonder why you did certain things, but consulting really taught me and gave me the foundation for everything that we do like time management and all of that stuff. You wouldn’t be able to learn and that’s what I did. But then, 2 years after consulting, you decide on whether you will stay or go onto Business School in that transition and for me, I had this gnawing feeling as I didn’t want to do either of those things. I have always loved fashion personally and so I sent my resumes out and I think when you're young, you just have more courage sometimes. When I was consulting, you travel a lot and I read a magazine and they showed a picture of the President of Donna Karan and she was in a meeting and she was Asian and it was really interesting because at that time, there wasn’t a lot of representation and for people to see them in magazines and I was looking at this thinking that this was amazing and she was leading these people. For some reason, it dawned on me that I wanted to send her my resume and I had to figure out how I was going to do this.

You know, you do weird things so I pretended that I was sending a package and I called the mailroom as I knew I had to get the specific information in terms of the floor that she was on. So I sent my resume and they did call me and ask if I wanted to come in. It was this crazy thing and it happened in 2 seconds and I honestly leveraged my Excel Spreadsheet skills in terms of getting in the front door!

AM: Ha! We’ve all been there and same!

IC: Slowly but surely, I worked my way through and I really loved working with product. At the end of the day, I worked there a very long time. I got to learn how to develop product and all aspects of the business. It was an exciting time for me actually.

AM: I have such a respect for product developers as my aunt was one for a number of major brands. It’s such an amazing way to extend a brand especially when you get into licensing and other things like that so I think that it is so cool.

What led you to decide to go off on your own and to create Parker Thatch?

IC: Well it’s so funny because I was living in New York and I met my husband Matt who is my husband now. I think it was just close to the dot com time when we met and I was very burnt out with what I did and I was traveling almost every day of my life for a number of years and I was just really exhausted. We met and his mother got sick and I said, “why don’t we just go to Australia,” because that’s where his parents were. So we spent almost a year there and we thought that maybe we could do something on our own. So that’s what started us tinkering with businesses in the year 2000. It has been crazy! I think that when we started that we were a little too early so no one understood it and now it’s like we could have done x, y, and z under this company given now how the business works. We had to survive and we said let’s just do stationary because people kept saying that they loved our paper and they didn’t understand the tech version of it.

So they just wanted to buy the paper. So that’s how we started! We started our company at my parent’s basement in the room that I grew up in.

AM: Well I love a good piece of stationary.

IC: So stationary turned into home and then I think in about 2009, Matt had an idea because we were doing a lot of customizing. He said, “I think that we could customize on cotton.” Can you think of something we can do on cotton. I told him it would be great to have a tote bag and that’s how it happened. I started with the bag at my dry cleaners. It’s the craziest story.

AM: Ok, I love that story and I love when people get scrappy to figure out how to take their vision and bring it to life and to figure it out! What a good synergy it was for you to find her because when you were saying this I thought, “well just because you can hem a pant, doesn’t mean you can make a bag!”

IC: We wondered what kind of materials we could use because we had no money to do any of this stuff so then I was like, “I love canvas and we can cut 2 strips of leather.” So the bags were made from canvas that we bought at Joann Fabrics and 2 strips of leather that Matt cut and grommeted on and that’s how it came about. Then we did these stripes with your monogram on it and stripes with your monogram on it and at that time, it was all about magazine and gift guides. So we sent them out and people loved them and it was insane!

AM: That is incredible!

What has drawn me to your brand as I have always been aware of it from a handbag assortment as opposed to your jewelry, is when I was talking with Celebrity Costume Designer Allyson Fanger for our MAY ISSUE #101 -

IC: She’s the best, I love her!

AM: It was amazing to be able to chat with her as I have loved the work that she has done in her career and the way that she is able to tell story the looks of the character whether alone or when they are interacting with others.

IC: How cool is she?

AM: She is so cool -

IC: She is so damn cool!

AM: The whole time I’m looking at her and all of her jewelry and in addition to my role as the Co-Founder/Creative + Style Dir. of Athleisure Mag, I’m also a Fashion Stylist and accessories are really my thing and it’s what I love utilizing as statement pieces when I am putting looks together.

So when she was talking about pieces she loves, she was pointing to her ring and said it was from Parker Thatch. I was surprised because I knew of your brand, but didn’t know that you made jewelry and she’s wearing it and we have a gab session for like 5 mins and I knew then that I would reach out to connect with you!

IC: Oh my God, I love that and she’s just so great! She’s such a great connector and she’s such a generous person when it comes to expanding to smaller designers and she’s just a great human being.

AM: In looking at the line again closely, I enjoy the clean aesthetic of what the brand is and I also love as you have mentioned that you work with your husband on this line and Athleisure Mag is also co-founded by a couple, my boyfriend and I.

IC: No way! I love it!

AM: We have a great flow. So what is your advice to people who are looking to start a venture whether it’s your significant other, a best friend, or a sister because when you have these relationships especially when you’re first starting out to make a business, it’s always good to keep some things in mind. So what is your advice?

IC: My biggest advice honestly, and I don’t know if you feel the same way, but really having respect for each other and the key I think fortuitously is to be on the same channel in terms of look and feel. The tone of voice – that is already naturally there and I don’t know if you feel that way.

AM: Yup!

IC: So that made it easy. But I think that it is truly respect and we each have skill sets that the other doesn’t have and we really lean on each other for those and I think that it’s also about growing up. It’s about getting away from always being right and becoming more vulnerable with yourself and saying, you know, that’s not my strength.

Exactly! I think that that is about building a team. We can’t be good at everything and I think a lot of time when you start a business, you think I can do everything – but you really can’t and it’s humbling yourself and respecting the other person. It’s like what you said, this is your lane and not mine and it’s worked for a very long time – we’re still married, we have 2 kids, and we’re still working!

AM: Ok, that’s amazing! Because times get hard sometimes!

IC: Haha don’t get it wrong! We still fight over stuff haha!

You know, when you make your own business, there are a lot reasons why you got to where you did and there is a lot of making the donuts and at the same time, it’s a lot of fun! Making your own business is super hard! The key is just moving forward every single day. There will be days where you feel like you can’t do it anymore and that you just have to put one foot in front of the other.

AM: 100% haha there are times you have to be your own hype person and just keep going!

IC: You just have to get it together and just move! That’s the key!

AM: If you’re able to still do things when the mountains continue to grow ahead of you and you don’t know how you would even think to climb it because there is no way to hold on and you find yourself in an

American Gladiator situation you know that you’re going to keep giving it your all!

IC: It really is! It’s a mindset and I think that that is the key. You have to do hard things and sometimes those challenges let you see that you can do way more than what you believe you can do. We sometimes hold ourselves back from what we can do.

I think that it’s fascinating that you said all that because for the last 6 years I have been focused on getting fit and learning about a lot of that. There is this whole concept of Zone 2 training which is about running slow actually makes you go faster. I think that that concept, I really take to heart. That's exactly what you are saying. Sometimes you need to just chill out. When you do that, I think that it makes things go much faster and smoother.

I love the fact that you do that because you’re able to keep moving! Just like you said, it's all about moving forward! That is truly what it is to be focused, to move, and to not be distracted. You want to do everything, but you can’t!

AM: 100% and that’s a huge lesson that you learn and it humbles you ha!

For someone who is not familiar with Parker Thatch, how would you describe this brand to someone who is just coming into it?

IC: Definitely this brand is all about what we say daily, it’s about ease and elegance and I really believe that. It’s about how do I make a product for you that is easy to put on and that you feel great! It’s not about being fussy and it’s always about one beautiful piece that you put on and that’s why I love jewelry. I love a great white shirt and a pair of jeans and then stack up that necklace and you look 100% and that takes 5 seconds. I think that for me, that was very important for that woman that sometimes feel stuck – how do I get you to just get out of the house? Like, you need to feel good to get that motivation so that you can have a good day! It’s not going to be everyday that you may feel that way, but I want to make products that will help you get there!

AM: In looking at the assortment, I love the Charlie bag which is amazing, the Cross Your Heart Sling is another one and personally, I’m not someone who tends to gravitate towards that style, but when I’m styling on set, I actually do use that style as it’s a great way for me to have what I need to set my outfits without running back to our set up since we sometimes take over an entire building or space. So being able to have my jewelry and everything on me as we transition from one look to the next and knowing its secure is how came to embracing slings initially.

What would you say are 3 must haves whether it be in handbags or your jewelry that people should be adding to their closets or to begin establishing their Parker Thatch collections?

IC: I love that! For sure, if you’re not a sling bag person, it’s this weird bag that when you want to be hands free and it’s not just a nylon sling bag. You can also make it into a clutch which is really great for travel. The Charlie bag for sure! It’s our newest bag. It hits all the points. It zips, it’s slouchy, it’s cool, and I just wanted to create a bag that when you feel you’re in those cool jeans that you love you feel it all together. You know, when you look at a surfer or a skateboarder, I’m always inspired by them. Even when they’re just carrying their skateboard, I’m always like, “damn, you look so cool!”

AM: It comes off so easy and effortless.

IC: Yeah and the way that they walk, there’s such a slouch to what they do and that’s how I conceptualized it. It took awhile to get that bag with its material to have that slouch and we had to keep testing it to get it there. I think that when you carry it, it kind of makes you feel like that. So I think that that bag is a fantastic bag! Then for me personally, the Jane bag again, it’s all about slouchiness for me! That bag again is great for travel and if you want to dump all of your commuter stuff in it, it’s a great bag!

So those three bags, I personally use them every day. It’s kind of a bag within a bag that’s within a bag. I do love that!

Now jewelry wise, for sure the Long Links Necklace. The huge Manifestation Crystal is a really popular thing and again, I love it when you can hang it. That Long Links Necklace looks amazing when you do that and again, for me it is about the slouchiness. You can make it long and you can make it short and it has this sexiness when you wear it with an open shirt and I love that. So for me, that’s what I am doing every day.

AM: What is your process in terms of adding styles to the brand or when you are thinking about colorways? Sometimes when you are looking at various brand the assortment is so vast and although there are a lot of options, it can also generate a lot of noise when it is not curated, edited, or rotated so that pieces can stand out.

IC: Definitely, it’s interesting because most of our stuff is pretty evergreen so we will always bring in the colors and I always feel like that. I’m a practical human. If I am going to buy an expensive big item, I’m thinking about if I am going to be using this every day. That’s important to me. When we bring in the colors, I’m always thinking about the little things that you can bring into your bag when you’re looking to go out. We kind of move a little bit with the seasons. Our best sellers are always the Caramel Suede, the tan colors, and so we’re always keeping that as the foundation. Camo is a big thing for me and it’s really interesting. When we first put it out there I was like ok and it’s great to see how our camo with the pink and red stripe has really become a big thing for us.

AM: It’s cute.

IC: Yeah and it’s such a great bag to travel with and a great bag to work with.

AM: Where do you go for inspiration? Even though the line has those evergreen elements in terms of your assortment, I’m sure that you’re still adding things here and there or looking at trend reports, Pantones, etc.

IC: You know, I always say that when you look at the products, for me the designs that we do are always a little familiar to you. But then the inspirations and feel is about putting a little something to it. So is it a red handle versus a brown one?

Our bags are familiar and yet there is something not familiar about it? That’s what makes me want to buy things these days because there are so many things that are out there like the fanny pack which is our sling bag. It is a fanny pack which is familiar, but lets do it in a beautiful leather and let’s use a strap and put in a pop of color so that your personality comes forward. I think that that is my inspiration and I am a practical person so that is what I draw from.

AM: I love the straps!

IC: They are so fun!

AM: I like that you can customize it and make it your own a little bit. Going back to the Sling Bag it’s a style that generally would not be one that I would personally gravitate to.

IC: I know!

AM: But then you hit IG, and I’m looking at how it’s larger than a traditional sling bag and I’m like, “why not change out the one I use on set and bring that in?” or I was just at Governors Ball and I did have a sling mini backpack that I brought, I would have preferred to have this body style and of course, I have styled a number of shoots where I have had sling bags in them. Then once you get to thinking about an accessory paired with my moto jacket you start to see how it can be worn personally. To your point, it’s about the familiar with these tones that have a little something nuanced. I do love a good slouchy bag style and years ago, there were so many and now not so much. There are versions that are oversized but that structure of the slouch that gives that cool girl style is not always there it’s just large. So a bag like XL Jane that is in my wheel house!

IC: It's putting your vision on it where the familiar meets the unfamiliar! That’s what takes it to the next level and you’re like, I need that! The familiar lets you connect with that memory and then the part that isn’t you say hmm there’s something there and together it becomes something that you love – it’s a little link and a little extra!

AM: It’s a little something. I love that and I love visual texture. Now there is a place I love visual texture. Now there is a place for something that is completely new, but then you have to think about it and see how it sits in your life. I knew that these pieces felt familiar while being presented differently. I knew when I looked at the colorways and the fabrications that I would wear a good portion of them and in some cases it reminded me of a bag from many years ago that I either wanted but couldn’t get, or had been part of my collection and had been lost to time, or would just be a silhouette that would be in a primary rotation.

IC: Oh thank you!

AM: Yeah and then you think about how versatile it can be with my leggings, jeans, maxi dresses, etc. I love visual mapping outfits because I love collecting pieces but there is a tight edit of my go-to’s that are with me when I’m out and about, at a meeting, etc. Those are the pieces that you live out of. So I like the classic and effortless components with that little bite so that it’s not too sweet. I’m not a fan of anything personally that is too sweet.

IC: Me neither! That’s so funny! I’m not a frilly person, but I will wear a shirt with a puffy sleeve, but then I have to put it with a pair of jeans.

AM: Same. I had a fun summer boho puffy sleeved maxi dress in black and it felt a little sweet, but of course, I paired it with my Caviar Beaded Lagos and a pair of Adidas Superstars with my Carrera’s to edge it up.

IC: You always have to juxtapose it. Even when we first started with that tote bag, we put leather straps on it and then a monogram and it took a canvas bag to something that was different. It’s fun!

AM: Have you guys done collaborations or are you working on any?

IC: We’re starting to do more of them. We just did one with Larissa Mills, she has a great story. She's a mom in Boston who has this insane following on Tiktok and Instagram and she has amazing style. She has collaborated with everybody like the Gap and for some reason, we really connected and we just did this cool little envelope clutch and we’re looking to do more of that and I just feel that I really love to meet those who share the same sense of sensibility and it can be any product! It’s about making that familiar product and making it a little bit extra!

AM: What will Fall and Holiday look like – or anything that you can share on that front.front.

IC: Yeah, Fall and Holiday is really all about burgundy tones, dark espressos, navy, and a lot of suedes. The Charlie bag has done really well for us and we want to bring more of that slouch in there with the jewel tones. We are doing textures like basketweave and hair – I love hair. So I love a cheetah, I love a great zebra print, and also playing with hot pink hair and yellow hair! That’s really fun on straps! So taking fun stuff and putting it on a strap so you’re not married to hot pink on the main part of the bag. But you can bring that texture in. A lot of croc and shiny things – like little tiny shiny things for Holiday!

AM: Oh that’s exciting! I can’t wait for that to come out!

IC: We’re really excited about that and it’s just really yummy. I love a burgundy and I really love an oxblood which is perfect for fall.

AM: You can never have enough oxblood. I love it when you talk about leather accessories, I love that color when you talk about a gel mani – it’s so rich and although for me it’s like a new neutral, it’s really great in the Fall!

You know, there are a number of brands that have lived in the handbag portion of the accessory category and they are now branching out into travel and travel specific pieces.

IC: Yeah.

AM: Is that something that you envision for the brand?

IC: Yes! That Charlie bag that we just introduced, we just did it in an XL and I tested it by taking it to Iceland and it was awesome! We are going to do more of that. We’re also working on a really good slouchy tote and again, over the shoulder, really slouchy, beautiful leathers and I can’t wait for that!

AM: Oh that sounds amazing and I can’t wait to check it out.

IC: It’s a great bag and it’s going to be one of those things that you’ll want to drag it everywhere! I want people to live in these bags! Also understand that it’s ok for it to get messy. People get so crazy when they spill on it and I’m like, “dude, that’s life man!” You should be proud of that, that means that you are moving and yeah it got dirty. If there is a drop of wine on that, that’s life!

We had the great honor of meeting 4X Team USA Olympic Beach Volleyball Medalist Kerry Walsh Jennings (G3, B1) and I think that she is just so bad ass! I remember when she was pregnant and she won that Gold medal and I was like, damn, she is so badass! So she came in and she had our sling bag on and she was like yeah but I spilled on it and I feel awful and I was like that’s awesome. She carries it everyday and she’s so tall and that’s life and I loved it! It should be your companion and that is what we want to strive for and we want you to grab it and know that it feels good and it does what it needs to for you.

IG @parkerthatch

PHOTOS COURTESY | Parker Thatch

Read the JUL ISSUE #103 of Athleisure Mag and see PARKER THATCH | Irene Chen in mag.

63MIX ROUTIN3S | ALLYSON FANGER

Read the JUN ISSUE #102 of Athleisure Mag and see 63MIX ROUTIN3S | Allyson Fanger in mag.

IT STARTS WITH THE CHARACTER | ALLYSON FANGER

When you're watching a series or a film, there are a number of elements that draw you in and provide additional context beyond the dialogue that is being spoken on the screen. Costume design is one that we're always watching as it adds that element of visual texture.

We sat down with Costume Designer Allyson Fanger who has brought her creative approach to a number of series and films including Wild Things, 10 Things I Hate About You, 80 For Brady, Grace & Frankie, Shrinking, Apples Never Fall, and Mack & Rita to name a few. We wanted to know more about how she chose this field, how she got into the industry, iconic looks that really delve into and drive the story forward, and how she approaches these projects.

ATHLEISURE MAG: I have been such a fan of your work and it’s such an honor to be able to talk with you!

ALLYSON FANGER: Oh, thank you so much!

AM: I have been a fan of your work since Wild Things and 10 Things That I Hate About You! I remember being in college and watching 10 Things That I Hate About You and just watching the images and how the characters were dressed and it really stuck with me! It was seared into my mind so personally, I have been a fan for awhile.

AF: I love it! It’s having a moment!

AM: Right?

AF: It’s so great!

AM: It’s really a testament to your approach to your work. As you’ve said, it’s still super relevant!

I’m a fellow Midwesterner myself and I live in NY now. I’m always intrigued by how those of us who come from that area of the country and then we end up leaving to go to the East or the West Coast. I find it interesting. How did you get your start in this industry?

AF: Well, I mean, that’s a big question. I got a degree in Anthropology actually and I started getting into photography and visual media towards the end of college. I have always been a very live in the moment type of person in general. In school, I didn’t know what I wanted to do and didn’t know that this was a career path that was possible to me. As you know, I lived and grew up in Minneapolis and went to college, then I came back after college, and I traveled a ton! I went to South East Asia, I went to India, Singapore, Nepal, Thailand, Malaysia – you know I, did that whole South East Asia thing. That really was very formative I think in my interest in culture and society and people! The difference in people in different areas and cultures, socioeconomically, geographically, how they grew up in a certain area and how things defined them from a costume perspective – from a look perspective, I was really attuned to the different colors, especially in India! Like the beautiful pigmented colors that have to do with not only skin tone of the people in the area, but also the light. The way the light hits and what looks well and the way that they use pigmented dyes and plants to make their colors.

All of those things were not lost on me and it was hugely formative to me on all of my work today. That is why I am able to find the various details and nuances in character and all of the elements that feed in to making a person, an individual full and defined and different and unique in their own way. Every single person is.

When I was doing Anthropology and Social Anthropology, the study of people – so that kind of tied into that and I came back to Minneapolis, and I wondered what I was going to do. I started hanging out with a lot of artists in Minneapolis just because those were my people. I had this very good friend at the time whose name was Gus. He was a big commercial photographer in Minneapolis. I was talking with him and I was starting to have a crisis on what I was going to do with my life. I went to live in London for a year and then I came back and I asked him what would I do with my life as I was 26 and he said, “honey, you should be a stylist.” He said it right away and I asked him what it was as I didn’t know anything about it. He told me to come work with him as he was a big commercial photographer and that I should work with his stylist Molly. I worked with her for 1 day and I got it. I knew that that was what I should be doing. So I started working on commercials in Minneapolis and I was making good money doing that, but then I got much more interested in doing character. I was like, commercials are fun, but at that time, especially with where commercials were – they wanted their people in Gap khakis and that was the mode of that very average look. It was like a great place to be in to learn the nuts and bolts, but I was really interested in character and at the time, I was very fortunate to also see that there were a lot of films that were coming to Minneapolis so I just hustled and got myself hired as a PA on a couple of features there and then I met Sharen Davis (Westworld, The Help, Fences) who is a Costume Designer and she is like my mentor. I don’t know if you know her.

AM: Oh yes!

AF: She did Dreamgirls and Watchman series, she is one of my dearest, dearest friends and I love her so much! She was like, “oh, you have to move to LA,” and she hired me on projects and she got me in the union and she kind of put me on my way and so here I am!

AM: That’s amazing!

AF: I mean, I did take 7 years off because I did have 3 children.

AM: Your body of work is amazing! Before we start delving into that. I want our readers to understand the difference between a Costume Designer and a Stylist?

AF: Oh that’s such an interesting question because there really is quite a difference! I mean, a Costume Designer and it’s funny because it comes up all the time, because my actors will always ask if I will style them for an event. I’m always like, “I definitely could,” but costume design is really about character development and informing character through look choices right and storytelling and that is what I love about it so much. It’s about intention, propelling the story forward, giving the viewers a kind of intimate relationship visually with characters and helping them to relate to the people that are on screen and that is what I love so much about what I do. It’s about finding pieces and I always try to have very personal pieces on people that hopefully get recognized by viewers. When I am doing a TV series especially, you watch these characters evolve and that’s part of it too. You put in elements of character evolution and how they journey through the story and as it changes. Sometimes, you don’t even know how it is changing. Then it’s changing and then we adjust and that’s how you make your choices in the morning. I like to say that people say to me, “I know who that character was before they even opened their mouth.” When they say that, I know that I am doing my job well. I think that that is true of all people. You get a lot of information just by what they are wearing and it’s one of those things that people don’t register consciously until it’s not there - you know what I mean? It’s interesting. You know when people have pictures coming up on their phones?

AM: Yes.

AF: One of our producers, he changed his picture and put up one where he was dressed up from an event for an Awards show. I was like, “oh Mike, I love that you changed your photo!” He was like, “yeah, you know what? Someone else had their photo and it presented so nice and I feel that I should have one too.” I said, “See how important it is in what you wear and you wear and how much the impact is when someone that you don’t even know?” It’s so huge! I mean, the people who even work in the business don’t recognize that that is happening.

Styling is about more of the look and stylists developing relationships with PR companies more and working with showrooms and there are loans. So that is why when I say to my actors that although it’s flattering and I would love to do everything, I say, "you know, working with someone where that is their world – it’s a different world.” And I do do it sometimes, but it’s it’s own niche world and it’s about look, fashion, impact, red carpet moment you know and it’s a whole other arena. Do you know what I mean?

AM: I am a stylist and I agree that Costume Design and Styling although there are similarities that do occupy very distinctive space. You could do both but they have very different elements to them. I may be thinking of a set that I am styling or a project and putting a story behind it but they are still very specific moments in time as opposed to having an arc that is not only spanning various episodes and seasons, but also integrating with a cast of characters that speaks back to one another.

When I watched Apples Never Fall, within the first few minutes of the show I knew that it was you who did the costume design. There are tones and elements of your work especially when I look at each character and how they are set against others in the cast that I can see it’s an Allyson Fanger fingerprint. Like you said, before the character opens their mouth, I have a great sense of who they are, who they’re aligned with, and in many cases how they are different from those that they are meant to be in the same group with.

AF: Thank you so much!

AM: All of those nuances that are taking place for a series or a movie Is not all the levers that I am navigating when I am doing a shoot of x amount of looks that may span 14 shots. There might be elements of it but not anywhere along the same scale and it’s still within the parameters of 1-3 people and just for that shoot.

AF: It’s different and it is its own art. Stylists who do it well, they blow me away. They know how to get those cameras snapping.

AM: Where do you start once you get attached to a project? For me, I’m looking at dealing directly with the brand, PR, showrooms, etc. I have a moodboard or project board where I’m thinking of the tone of the shoot how it ties into my celeb, the set, and vibe.

For you, what is your treasure trove of things that you are pulling from when you’re going on to a project.

AF: It always starts with the script and the words. It’s a well drawn character in the script. When I read a script in a project, I know that I get so excited when I know that the characters are so well developed and sometimes some of them are not and the writers know! I have put together boards for a meeting and I’ll let them know that I am not completely sure of this person and they’ll say, “yeah, I know. We didn’t give you any information.”

So the information is in if they have flushed out a character, if they know who that person is, then they are able to translate it into their words and into the story. That then gives me the information that I need. I look at geography which is huge to me. Where is this person from, where did they grow up vs where do they live now? What do they carry with them from that time from their formative years? We then know what their socioeconomic status is and I always work with the production set as I want to know what their house looks like, their car – all of those things are what I go off of. Then it’s what are they doing in the story and what’s their job or not? All of that goes in and then I have meetings and a lot of times as costume designers, they throw you a script and tell you that you’re going to have a meeting with boards which includes everyone – producers, directors and you sort of have to take your best shot at filling in the lines and see. But the thing is, as I have done at this point in my career, it’s either a match or it’s not. As you see it, and again, I am getting such good scripts now, that I feel like I am always able to sort of hone in on what it is an things that they haven’t thought about a lot of times too. They get excited and will say, “oh my God yes!”

Like in Apples Never Fall, one of the things that I did was – the relationship between Stan Delaney (Sam Neill) and Brooke Delaney (Essie Randles) was the strongest relationship in the script and she was the most of his ally. So, I helped to tell that story with help from clothing by her. Like his oxford shirt, she would wear the shirt sometimes over more tank top and athletic pant vibes. In my head, those were taken straight out of Stan’s closet. I love telling stories with families so much because I love family dynamics. I love finding the thread in the family, the thread was already there in Apples Never Fall and the thread was already tennis, but you know just relating the characters through and finding the differences and well defining them and then finding the sameness.

I love doing mother/daughter. In Grace & Frankie, I always imagined that Mallory (Brooklyn Decker) and Brianna (June Diane Raphael), although they were so different in how they presented, both could have pulled from Grace’s (Jane Fonda) closet for different things.

AM: My mind was blown the very first episode of Grace & Frankie. I mean it was a confluence of beauty from the writing, the cast, how the characters were dressed, the set, etc. What made you want to be part of this project? This series ran for 7 seasons unlike Apples Never Fall which was a limited series, so how do you create this world and balance between growth of the characters as well as continuity. It must be incredibly difficult.

AF: That was something that we talked about from the very beginning of Grace & Frankie – it was about their journey and how to make sure to tell that through costumes. One of the big ones for that was Grace, because Grace comes in at the beginning and she was so closed off emotionally, damaged, hurt, and protecting herself. Also, just her aesthetic in general was stoney and we used ceramic colors. So I said that we should have her colors be those of ceramics and pottery – grey, taupe, camel – it was about using those cold colors.

AM: There was a sterility about it although the pieces were beautiful. So you had these sterile moments with a bit of a prickly edge that would come out every now and then!

AF: Yes! The collars and she’s just very controlled as a person emotionally! Then you have Frankie (Lily Tomlin) which is such a fun person. What a blessing that show was for me. Frankie was this artist soul and I had her color as a Santa Fe sunset. She’s got her red, yellow, orange, green, color pattern, texture – all of her kooky moments. I didn’t want her to feel like – and we talked about this a lot – it wasn’t about having her as a caricature of a hippie lady or a Bohemian lady. She had to have a lot of depth and she’s an artist. So I really looked at the artists ladies in Norway and Sweden and it was about having the long layers, architectural and jewelry and I used crystals because obviously she was spiritual so I used those large crystals on her and if you noticed some of the necklaces were made out of rubber. So she wore a lot of those vibes also. She had a number of European brands that she wore so that is something that I did with her.

The things about their journey together is that we had Grace bring color into her life and that happened around the end of Season 1 and then we kind of kept it going and we never really changed her completely as a person, but we would bring more Frankie into her life as she embraced life more right? She experienced life more through Frankie. We had all of Grace’s shirts made. The first shirts, the color shirts - the first print that Grace had ever worn were these shirts that I got that were made from Carolina Herrera and we loved that shirt! It’s such a great shape and a classic look.

AM: Really loved that shirt!

AF: It was perfect for Grace and I was like, “they don’t really make print or color.” I reached out to them and I said, “do you have any print or color?” They said that they actually had some archival fabrics that they made the first 4 shirts for us for that show. Then that was it, there were 4. So I started sourcing fabric and making all of those shirts. So all of the shirts that Grace wore, they were custom and we made all of them as they kind of didn’t exist at the time! A lot of people are making them now though. So that’s the story of them!

AM: I love hearing about those shirts as I loved them! Is it different for you if you’re dong a series versus a film?

AF: Yeah, but well, not necessarily with character development, it depends on the arc, it depends on the story. Films are easier.

AM: Yeah it’s an endpoint!

AF: Yeah, you have 1 script! And you have it ahead of time. I’m an adrenaline girl and I love a challenge. I thrive well in chaos in this world. I don’t get rattled, I kind of get very last minute in TV because they are always writing those scripts! Right now I’m on Shrinking -

AM: Another great display of characters as I love the palettes.

AF: Thank you, we’re on Episode 10 and I don’t have the script for 11 and 12 yet and we start shooting that in probably about a week! So, it has it’s own challenges! Whereas a film has its own arc where it’s wild and busy and you have all of these things going on and then it’s done and it’s over. I do love doing film and I want to do more film going forward in my career and I am manifesting that for sure.

AM: What are 3 of your favorite looks that you have created whether it’s for a series or a film or 3 characters that you really loved working with?

AF: Ugh, I love them all! When I get this question, I mean they’re all my children so that is such a tough question for me. I really feel attached and love all of my characters so much! I mean, Frankie is probably the most near and dear to my heart. The character Frankie, I mean first, Lily Tomlin (9 to 5, The West Wing, 80 for Brady) one of the most amazing women and such an incredible person and so is Jane (Monster-in-Law, The Butler, The Newsroom)! I mean, the two of them probably – I have to say that it was the most seminal for me and really transformed me as an artist in this world and I got to spend 7 years with them and I got to really get to know them as members of my own family and they kind of were. I think that the thing with Grace & Frankie is that they resonated so strongly with people because they resonated with some part of everyone’s family or someone who they knew and loved! Everybody saw someone that they knew or loved within one of these women or both! I always say too that Grace & Frankie, they are characters, but we are all a little Grace and all a little Frankie. We have pieces of both of these women in us and our mothers and our sisters and our aunts right? So, I think that that’s why they were resonating so strongly with so many people.

AM: Even the other characters in the show, I have a friend group or family member that reminded me of them. Like many, I was sad when it was over. It got me a bit teary eyed. I know that things can’t go on for forever and sometimes when a show stays on too long, the thing that you loved about it stops taking place because maybe there isn’t enough story and then that isn’t great either. But it was such a comfort with the visuals, the cast, the writing, and it would be hard for even another show to replicate and achieve that tone and playful push pull hat took place throughout the series in the way that it did. It’s rare to have that type of an ensemble cast, with the breadth and depth of topics covered, and all the other elements.

AF: Well that’s Marta Kauffman (Dream On, Friends, Leave the World Behind) she’s amazing and I am very grateful!

AM: Do you have any upcoming projects that are coming up that you are able to share that we can keep an eye out for?

AF: Yeah! I’m doing Shrinking Season 2 right now. I’m thinking, did I do anything between Apples and Shrinking? No – we’ve had some strikes here in our industry.

AM: Of course.

AF: So there has been some stalls. I’m doing a pilot with Marta Kauffman of Grace & Frankie. We’re going to be starting that soon also. Right now, those are my babies and they’re keeping me quite busy!

IG @allysonfanger

We could have spoken with Allyson Fanger even more about how she delves into her character and like that her approach pulls in a number of factors so that the characters are easily positioned in our mind! For those who have yet to see Grace & Frankie, you can stream all episodes right now on Netflix.

Apples Never Fall can be streamed now in its entirety for this limited series on Peacock. As a bit of bonus information, Allyson sent us some notes on how she approached creating the costume direction for this show which focuses on a tennis family!

We enjoyed hearing how she looked at the relationship between Stan and Brooke to inform how would they look and to show their connection with one another. She sent us some other notes which focuses on the relationship between Stan and his son Troy (Jake Lacy), as his father always called him out for being flashy, but he wore a number of big brands too!

She shared that Troy is flashy, but in a way that reads more of a wealthy understated nature. This is more of an anti flashy aesthetic where the clothes are expensive, but there are no logos or there may be subtle ones. It's all about a IYKYK vibe. His clothes are meticulously fitted as well as being tailored.

In terms of his father Stan, he's not focused on whether a brand is expensive, but it's about brand names that are athletic. Tennis is not just what he excelled in or involves training others, it is who he is and is very much part of his identity. So it's natural that he is in an athletic aesthetic like tracksuits and branded pieces. Interestingly, in those moments that he is not dressing like this, he seems like he is out of place.

Interestingly enough, both of them have large personalities and egos and how they present and dress is important to them and as much as they butt heads throughout the series with one another, it's really because they are similar in their personalities.

When you're watching the series, brands such as Tory Burch, The Upside, Lucky in Love, Sporty & Rich, Ciao Lucia, Venroy, Ralph Lauren Polo, Alo, Lululemon, FILA, NIKE, Reebok, Helly Hansen, and Golden Age of Tennis were included.

While we watched this series, we were reminded of an array of tennis stars. Interestingly enough, we were not that far off as each character had an inspirational star!

Stan Delaney's costume direction was inspired by Jimmy Connors, Joy Delaney spired by Jimmy Connors, Joy Delaney (Annette Bening) was inspired by Martina Navratilova, Troy Delaney's costume direction came from Roger Federer, Amy Delaney's (Alison Brie) look was inspired by Maria Sharapova, Logan Delaney (Conor Merrigan Turner) is a mixture of Bjorn Borg/Andre Agassi, Brooke Delaney which we spoke on earlier in this article is inspired by Anna Kournikova, and Harry Haddad's (Giles Matthey) costume direction comes from Rafael Nadal.

PHOTOS COURTESY | Allyson Fanger

Read the MAY ISSUE #101 of Athleisure Mag and see IT STARTS WITH THE CHARACTER | Allyson Fanger in mag.

9LIST STORI3S | ALLYSON FANGER

Read the MAY ISSUE #101 of Athleisure Mag and see 9LIST STORI3S | Allyson Fanger in mag.

ATHLEISURE MAG ISSUE #101 | CURTISS COOK

In this month’s issue, our front and back cover story is with Showtime star of The Chi, Curtiss Cook. We sat down with him to talk about his approach to acting and how he connects to his characters, the success of The Chi, the importance of mental health and why it is important to him, as well as upcoming projects. We also enjoyed spending time with him in Chelsea at Selina Chelsea Hotel as we shot his cover at Creatures at Selina Rooftop and Music For A While listening lounge with key menswear looks for your next outing.

Earlier this month, we headed to Lifetime Fitness for the unveiling of their 7 Pickleball courts as well as to see legendary 8X Grand Slam Winner and 60 ATP Tour wins, Andre Agassi. We enjoyed a fireside chat with him as well as the founder of Lifetime Fitness, Bahram Akradi. We enjoyed hearing him talk about playing as a tennis star and how he has transitioned to enjoying pickleball. In addition, we were able to watch him as well as fellow pickleball stars Anna Bright, Tyson McGuffin, Collin Johns, and Ben Johns play in a series of exhibition games.

This month, we also caught up with 2x Team USA Swimming Medalist Lydia Jacoby ahead of the Summer Games in Paris to talk about her sport, swimming for the University of Texas at Austin, what her average week of training is like, and what the weeks ahead look like as Paris 2024 approaches. .

We enjoyed Season 1 of Outer Range and with Season 2 available on Prime Video, we enjoyed talking with Showrunner and Executive Producer Charles Murray to talk about how he was drawn to storytelling and why he enjoys doing it. We also talk about how he came to this neo-western and the power of secrets. We also connected with actors Tamara Podemski and Isabel Arraiza in this series to find out about their characters from Season 1 and what we can expect from Season 2.

Part of a story and its characters coming together takes place in its costume direction as it says a number of elements that are not necessarily in the script, but round out the picture! Costume Designer Allyson Fanger has been storytelling through costumes in films and television from Wild Things, 10 Things I Hate About You to Grace & Frankie, Shrinking, Apples Never Fall, etc. We caught up with her to find out how she got into the industry, her journey, how she approaches her craft, the difference between styling and costume design, and upcoming projects. 

We're back for our 7th year as Media Sponsors for PRIDE NYC which takes place throughout the month of June here in NYC. In advance of this, we wanted to share what you can look forward to this year in our pre-coverage and next month we will have more details on events that we attended.

Bar Convent Brooklyn takes place next month Jun 11- 12 as it's a time for those in the bar/beverage, and hospitality industry to come together to meet new spirit brands and sample launches as well. Ahead of us attending the trade show as well as related events, we wanted to connected with the Event Vice President, Jackie Williams to find out how this event came to be, an overview of its 6 years, and what we can expect this year for attendees and exhibitors in Industry City, Brooklyn. Next month, we'll share our thoughts on what we saw and enjoyed so that you can keep an eye out for new brands and launches.

In an already busy June ahead, Governors Ball will return to Flushing Meadows on Jun 7 - 9! We give an overview on what you can expect and what we look forward to as this music festival kicks off the summer season. Next month, we'll share what we saw and who we interviewed in our JUN ISSUE #102.

This month's The Art of the Snack comes from Heritage Grand Bakery, Heritage Grand and Restaurant and Pizza Bar in Bryant Park. We wanted to know more about this eatery that allows you to have a number of options to go if you're ordering from the bakery for breakfast and lunch and bites in between. We also liked knowing more about the restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, and is a great happy hour spot.

This month's Athleisure List comes from The Thinking Traveller, luxury rentals villas in Italy and Greece that are perfect for you to truly enjoy your family with the ability to include premium add-ons to personalize your stay. We also have Hot Bones a Detroit wellness studio that has hot yoga as well as pilates! They are also known for their bone broth that guests can enjoy as well for a full holistic approach. 

This month’s 9PLAYLIST comes from EDM group Swedish House Mafia and VASSY. This month we have our 9PLAYLIST MULTI from our cover star, Curtiss Cook who shares songs, books and podcasts/TV/films that he is enjoying. Our 9LIST STORI3S comes from Costume Designer Allyson Fanger who shares her must-haves in beauty, style, and fitness. Our 63MIX ROUTIN3S comes from 2X Team USA Swimming Olympian Lydia Jacoby and actor, Joey Lawrence. This month's THE 9LIST 9CH3FS and THE 9LIST 9B-L-D comes from Chef David Seigal of The Lobster Place, Chef Seadon Shouse of Halifax W Hoboken, and Chef David Rose.

Read the MAY ISSUE #101 of Athleisure Mag.