THINGS THAT AGE YOUR SKIN

PHOTO COURTESY | Mike Fox

PHOTO COURTESY | Mike Fox

Unless you have been living under a rock, you know that smoking, not wearing sunscreen and going to bed with your makeup on hardly produces the coveted look of Instagram’s “glass skin.”  Aside from these three ‘skin sins’ there are many others that are not so obvious. We turned to Denver Board-Certified Plastic Surgeon Dr. Manish Shah who is a big believer in pre-juvenation and a holistic approach to youth.   

Inconsistent Dieting

“Many people think caring for your skin is skin-deep,” quips Dr. Shah. “It is not.“ Inconsistent or inadequate nutrition that has your body mass and weight moving in a yo-yo motion up and down the scale can contribute to ruined elasticity and reduced collagen in the skin. This is part of the reason why specialists will recommend a two-pound maximum weight loss goal per week because your skin needs time to adapt to the loss of mass. Dr. Shah explains that the skin needs to be nourished from the inside as well and many of the trend diets like keto and paleo focus on one group of food and though it can help keep a caloric deficit, it can also create a deficit of the necessary vitamins and minerals you need to keep your skin looking healthy.

Drinking Too Much Coffee

“Excessive amounts of caffeine can increase the levels of insulin and cortisol in the system,” explains Dr. Shah.  Insulin increases inflammation and cortisol is known as the stress hormone. This combination could mix up your sleeping habits and contribute to continued stress which can lead to sleep deprivation. “Sleep deprivation prevents that regenerative rest our skin and mind need to stay healthy.”

Neglecting the Skin Around Your Eyes

"The skin around your eyes is the thinnest and has very few oil glands," says Dr. Shah. Pamper your eyes and stave off signs of aging by choosing a daily eye cream that includes peptides. Dr. Shah explains, “They work to stimulate collagen production and prevent fine lines. Be sure to check the label.” Other notable ingredients that reduce puffiness, lines, wrinkles, and under eye circles are caffeine and nicotinic acid (a form of the B vitamin niacin).

Expecting Instant Results from Beauty Treatments

Most of us are guilty of trying a face cream or anti-aging treatment once or twice and then giving up on it before it has had a chance to work. A majority of anti-aging treatments take up to a month to begin showing positive effects. Dr. Shah explains, “This is due to the cycle of your skin, which undergoes a period of cellular structure renewal over a span of 30 days. In our instant gratification mode, we often toss a product before giving it time to work.”

Taking Medications With Side-Effects on the Skin

Certain medications like corticosteroids for asthma and arthritis cause the skin to thin and weakens blood vessels. Medicine to treat seizures can cause heightened sensitivity to sun damage in the skin which is a common perpetrator in premature aging. Blood pressure medications that block calcium channels have been studied in relation to their inhibition of collagen production by obstructing the absorption of vitamin C by the cells. Vitamin C is an important part of collagen production.  “If these medications are being prescribed to you by your physician then the benefits outweigh their effect on collagen production. There is no need to stress over this, as long as you take care of your skin in other ways you should be fine,” explains Dr. Shah.

Consuming Excessive Amounts of Salt

“By all measures, an excess of salt in your diet is detrimental to your kidneys, your cardiovascular health and, yes, your skin,” says Dr. Shah. Salt absorbs moisture and it can aid in making your skin look dry and less vibrant. Reducing your sodium intake and sticking to a moisturizing routine should help your skin stay healthy and smooth.

Facial Expressions

Every time you move that beautiful face, your skin wrinkles a little bit. Most of the time your face bounces back and those little wrinkles disappear once new skin cells grow.

Soap

While you may think that soap is your skin’s best friend, this is actually not the case. The reason for this is that your skin has an acid mantle which is a natural protective barrier of the skin. When you wash with soap – which is generally alkaline – it can remove this protective layer of oils and dry out the skin, eventually leading to wrinkles. Dr. Shah says that “While it is not advisable to stop washing entirely, try swapping the soap for a PH-neutral and chemical-free cleanser, and bear in mind that there is such a thing as over-cleansing your skin.”

Tugging on Your Skin While Applying or Removing Makeup

To minimize the damage to the skin around your eyes, follow these quick tips from Dr. Shah:

Use your ring finger to pat on products around your eyes, including serums, oils, moisturizers, and concealers. Your ring finger is the least likely to pull or tug at your skin.

Apply eyeliner and eyeshadow by gently closing your eyelids, rather than by pulling them taut. If you’re struggling to apply without pulling, consider investing in products that are made to apply smoothly, like cream or gel formulas.

Have patience when removing makeup from the eye area. Use cotton or another soft product, coated well with your favorite makeup removing solution. Hold the cotton over your closed eye without wiping, allowing the product to break down the makeup. After a minute or so, wipe gently to remove the makeup.

Picking Your Skin

You're not a dermatologist or licensed aesthetician. You should not be picking at your pimples, ingrown hairs, or anywhere else on your face. It's one of the biggest assaults against your skin and can have permanent effects. "The more people press and manipulate blemishes, the more inflammation they create underneath," explains Dr. Shah. "The result is scars, pockmarks, and discoloration that can become permanent.”

Licking Your Lips Constantly

There's a myth out there that claims people can get addicted to lip balm. "These people just have dry skin and miss the feeling of the balm when it's gone," says Dr. Shah. Lip licking can become a bad habit. But when you moisten your lips that way, you actually wind up making things worse. The water in your saliva evaporates, leaving lips dry and cracked. "Saliva can contain bacteria and irritants, so you can end up with a rash around the lips as well," says Dr. Shah. Try a lip balm such as Burt's Bees 100% Natural Moisturizing Lip Balm, Original Beeswax with Vitamin E & Peppermint Oil.

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10 BEAUTY PRODUCT MARKETING CLAIMS DECONSTRUCTED

PHOTO CREDIT | UnSplash

PHOTO CREDIT | UnSplash

We are all subject to marketing and advertising on a daily basis. Nowadays it seems like even thinking about skin care will get you bombarded with countless ads and sponsored post on social media. But how trustworthy are some of the marketing buzzwords used to describe the effects of skincare merchandise? We reached out to an anti-aging expert and board-certified Denver Plastic Surgeon, Dr. Manish Shah. Shah advocates helping consumers understand what this frequently used language means. Dr. Shah is also an ethical patient safety advocate.

“There are many ways marketers attempt to pull the wool over the eyes of the consumer with empty phrases and jargon,” comments Dr. Shah. “A phrase such as ‘clinically tested’ and ‘doctor recommended’ is used to mislead consumers into thinking a certain product has more credibility than it actually does.” However, Dr. Shah explains, when these phrases are used it says nothing for the results of the clinical tests or what the products were tested for. In terms of products being “Doctor recommended,” Shah warns that “consumers don’t know what doctor recommended the product in most cases and if those doctors are getting some sort of incentive for endorsement.”

Dr. Shah shares common marketing jargon phrases used to mislead consumers.

A Product that claims “Patented Technology”

“Patents are not necessarily a foolproof sign that something is groundbreaking or effective,” explains Dr. Shah. “Marketers use this language to convey innovation and superiority that their product might not necessarily have over its competitors,” he says. Patents are sometimes authorized through technicality instead of breakthrough meaning any new combination of ingredients, methods or production process can be patented as long as it is new.

“Maximum strength”

This is a term used often by skin cleansers and moisturizers. “It’s a relative term and the consumer doesn’t really know what it is relevant to. It’s language that entices the shopper to make the purchase without really telling them how it accomplishes ‘maximum strength’ results,” says the Denver Plastic Surgeon. 

“Clinical strength”

From painkillers to hydrating serums, companies love to bill their products as having “clinical strength.” Dr. Shah says consumers should practice healthy skepticism with such claims. “A product that claims it has clinical strength, in many cases, could have been tested by the doctors developing it. If you think about it you can’t really pinpoint what that phrase means because it is relative and we have no context as to what the company considers clinical strength,” says Shah. The perception, explains Dr. Shah, is that the product is better because the world clinical makes it sound more credible.

“For All Skin Types”

“This is a difficult promise to deliver on,” says Shah who has practiced his specialty for 14 years. “Not all skin is the same. If someone has an allergy to an ingredient or some form of dermatitis they really should speak to their doctor about what products are best to include in their regiment instead of blindly trusting a label,” he says.  

“FDA Approved” 

The FDA has different protocols for skincare products that make cosmetic claims as opposed to those that make more medical claims such as promising to increase production of collagen in the skin. Since that is a body function the FDA treats those differently than normal skincare products. However the FDA just stipulates that the product being sold is safe to use in the manner in which it is directed to be used “FDA approval is not credential that shows the superiority of results,” says Dr. Shah. The plastic surgeon recommends that you not be sold on the sole factor of an FDA approval.

“Anti-Aging, Revitalizing, or Age Defying”

We’ve all seen these on the labels of some cream or serum or advertised in a commercial where beautiful models and actresses are displayed in all of their airbrushed and well-lit perfection. “These terms are somewhat misleading in that they give the perception of an unrealistic turning back of the clock,” says Dr. Shah. To many consumers viewing an advertisement, it might seem like buy and using that product will help them look like an ageless actress and that is not accurate.” Aging gracefully and maintaining a more youthful look has a lot to do with nutrition, exercise, genes, consistent skin care, stress levels, and cosmetic procedures when necessary. But according to Shah, people cannot cling onto just one aspect in order to look their best and no one product will reverse the clock.

Medical-Looking Packaging

Be wary of bottles that look like test tubes, labels or packages that include a medical or first aid cross, or feature type that looks like Rx suggesting that it’s a prescription-strength formula even though it’s sold over the counter.

Botanical

Dr. Shah explains that “An actual botanic is technically an ingredient that is derived from a plant. But, again, “botanical” may be used in advertising to refer to something that is synthetic but acts similar to a plant-based ingredient.”

Instant Results

Keep in mind that “instant results” aren’t the same as “long-term results.” Meaning, you may use a product that gives you instant moisture or has a quick-acting firming effect, but those results may fade after a few hours and require reapplication. Dr. Shah’s final advice: “Check a product to make sure it specifies whether its “instant” effects are long lasting or short term.”  

Firming

What you think it means: Proven to make skin look tauter.

What it really means: Essentially nothing. “There is no objective way to measure firming,” says Dr. Shah “When a brand says their product has been shown to firm your skin, that claim can only be based on very subjective consumer perception.”

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IT'S ALL ABOUT NAIL HEALTH

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Celebrity Manicurist and Owner of As U Wish Nail Spa, Skyy Hadley has a few tips on what we need to know about Nail Health especially for those of us that enjoy getting gel manicures!

  • If getting a gel or acrylic set is inevitable, take proper care of your nails prior to the treatment to reduce damage post-removal. Use a nail hardener so nails will become stronger and less prone to damage.

  • Avoid keeping gel or acrylics on for longer than two weeks, with three-week wear being the absolute max. Nails need to breath in order to be healthy, and these heavy polishes suffocate the nail beds and cuticles.

  • Once your polish is removed, it’s instrumental to begin the repair process immediately to minimize long-term damage. The Sally Hansen Gel Rehab Overnight Nail Mask is the perfect remedy because after applying, drying and going to bed, all you have to do is wash off the treatment to reveal healthier nails. For nails that are super damaged, apply the treatment three consecutive nights in a row.

  • In addition to the Overnight Nail Mask, moisturizing and taking vitamins will help to strengthen your nails between manicures, and helps to achieve strong, healthy nails for the long-run.

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