SWEET & SAVORY | CHEF DOMINIQUE ANSEL

Earlier this year we had the pleasure of interviewing Chef Dominique Ansel as we talked about his partnership with Honey Bunches of Oats as well as his noted Dominique Ansel Bakeries that are here in NYC as well as in Las Vegas! He is know for his phenomenal creations and now that Papa D'Amour opened a few weeks ago we wanted to talk about his latest concept, how it came about, and more! We also had an incredible time having a 9TASTING of some of the unique and satisfying treats that are sweet and savory located in Greenwich Village.

ATHLEISURE MAG: It’s so good to see you again!

CHEF DOMINIQUE ANSEL: It’s so good to see you again. How are you?

AM: We're good!

So, what is the thought behind this latest concept? I'm so excited that you're able to now be able to fully tell us about it!

CHEF DA: We live in New York City. It’s the most eclectic city in the world! I’m French obviously, I came from France and I met my wife in NY, she’s from Taiwan. Our kids are born here, they grew up here and of course, they are Americans. They have the culture here and they are also growing up in the culture that we share together. So our family celebrates lots of different holidays that are Chinese, French, American!

AM: Oh yeah!

CHEF DA: It’s a lot of different holidays so it’s amazing to be able to teach them about our different cultures and what they are like. That’s how this concept came about.

At home, we’re eating all kinds of foods - Asian, French it’s all diverse. We want to expose them to all of that and we’re glad that our kids can learn all about it.

AM: That’s amazing and such a great foundation for them.

You're known as someone who's always creating and being innovative. What are the synergies between French pastry and Asian breads?

CHEF DA: It’s all about the culture and the tradition of food. That is the most important thing to me. There are a lot of French techniques that we do here. There’s a lot of Asian inspired flavors and traditions of how we eat things. It’s a mix of cultures and not so much a mix of ingredients.

AM: Wow!

And what are the spices and ingredients that are indicative of Taiwanese Cuisine that you've implemented into this menu?

CHEF DA: I think it's more like scallions, hot dogs, and rice. There’s a mochi donut and there are a lot of things that are a nostalgia to the Asian community in terms of Asian preference of bread. That overlaps with the French.

AM: Your menu here doesn't have any repeats from your other restaurants. So, what was the process like in making this menu, and how do you achieve that balance between what you're offering is?

CHEF DA: Well, it was very challenging first of all!

AM: We would assume that!

CHEF DA: So you don't want to be too French and you don't want lean into being too Asian so we’re right in between, right in the middle. It's something new and it’s something fresh in terms of the idea. We wanted to make sure that we are telling the stories behind each of the creations.

AM: Right.

CHEF DA: The process was long, it took us about a year to work through all of these ideas from the concept, to the testing, to the execution. We wanted to make sure that everything that is available and that you receive, each one of them has a reason to be and that it has a message to pass on.

AM: That is such a thoughtful approach to this concept!

In terms of seasonality, what are flavors that we can expect as we continue to navigate the Summer and then as we go into the Fall?

CHEF DA: Well it’s always the same for me. I love fresh fruits in the Summer and I always like nuts and chocolate towards the Winter. So the menu right now is still the same because we just opened a few weeks ago. But there will definitely be some changes in the Fall!

AM: It will be interesting to see what that will be!

So when it comes to introducing new ingredients or spices into the menu, what do you look at?

CHEF DA: The most important thing for me is the culture, looking at traditions, or even childhood memories. Those elements are not always so much in regular ingredients. But it’s also how you eat food as well.

AM: Right.

CHEF DA: For example, we have Scallion Bread and the tradition of eating it in Taiwan, is the you hold it and you fluff the bread. So you see that motion in your hands that makes the dish lighter. So we have a pastry that resembles a little bit of this. So it’s a cultural thing and that’s what it is for me more than anything else!

AM: When you're not at your restaurants or creating concepts – we know that you do a lot and are so busy. How do you spend time just for yourself?

CHEF DA: I spend it all with my kids! They keep me very busy and I’m very happy about it!

AM: Well Chef, we appreciate you talking with us and sharing more about Papa D’Amour as well as answering our questions for our series THE 9LIST 9M3NU again as well as 9CH3F ROUTIN3S! We’re really looking forward to tasting your creations and showcasing this with 9TASTING which we'll share soon! We have truly enjoyed finding out the storytelling behind the dishes you create!

CHEF DA: Thank you!

PAUL FARKAS: It’s amazing that you came up with this menu all within a year!

CHEF DA: It’s challenging and it’s risky too! It’s brand new and it’s small.

PF: I was going to ask, in terms of Taiwanese cuisine, are there restaurants that are here in NY?

CHEF DA: There are a few, but there are some that are a gem! There is one that I go to where every single dish is like wow! It’s so delicious and so simple! My wife and I were there and there is just this seasoning that is in the wok because they don’t really wash it so it’s just rinsed off. So you have those layers of rich flavor, spices, soy sauce, and various oils and so when you’re eating there everything has a bit of that flavorful mix because of the wok. It’s strange, but it’s really good!

IG @papadamournyc

PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS | Paul Farkas

Read the JUL ISSUE #115 of Athleisure Mag and see SWEET & SAVORY | Chef Dominique Ansel in mag.

OUTSTANDING IN THE FIELD ON GOVERNORS ISLAND

We always love an immersive culinary experience where we enjoy great dishes as well as getting to know about an event or focus that will allow us to see the impact of our attendance long after a great meal is enjoyed. We’re excited to share that you have the opportunity to enjoy Outstanding in the Field on Governors Island on Aug 29th at 3pm. Executive Chef Andrew Ayala and Executive Pastry Chef Salvatore Martone from Midtown’s Michelin-starred French Restaurant, Le Jardinier by the Bastion Collection will have a one-of-a-kind meal that is not to be missed! This dinner’s guest oyster farm is Fishers Island Oyster Farm, the guest winery is Hermann J. Weimer Vineyard, and the guest beverage producer is Mountain Valley Spring Water.

We love that there are various components that bring this event together and as you can still get tickets to this event, here is some background. Outstanding in the Field is known as a roving restaurant that takes place in a designated city on a certain date where there are no walls. Many restaurants that we have interviewed within our issues are so proud of how they source their ingredients from purveyors, farmer’s markets etc. Since 1999, this organization arrives with their long tables in fields, orchards, and seashores - this is because this is where the harvested ingredients come from that will be part of your meal. They have done this in 50 US States as well as 24 countries in the world. The ability to truly connect farm to table and to showcase and celebrate those who labor to feed us is important.

PHOTO CREDIT | Adrian Blackwell

PHOTO CREDIT | Adrian Blackwell

In their effort to connect with local chefs, farmers, and artisans to create these unique experiences, it’s no wonder that the chefs of French restaurant, Le Jardinier will be participating this year! Executive Chef Andrew Ayala participated in the Miami ideation this past winter to showcase Florida’s produce and we’re sure that he will find inspiration for what the Northeast provides in the summer and sourcing seafood off the coast and experimenting with peak season ingredients.

The event will kick off with a cocktail hour and then will have a multi-course meal and the Manhattan skyline will serve as a backdrop on Governors Island which is only accessible via ferry. Tickets are still available for $425/pp.

This event is also in partnership with the Billion Oyster Project, an organization that engages local students and youth volunteers to restore New York Harbor’s lost oyster reefs. 

We’re looking forward to attending this event and will have details on it as well as interview with in our AUG ISSUE #104 which drops on Aug 30th.

Read the lastest issue of Athleisure Mag.

THE ART OF THE SNACK | SOOGIL

This month, we're enjoying French-Korean Soogil located in the East Village. Owner/Chef Soogil Lim talks with us about his restaurant, signature dishes, cocktails that we must try and how he has found additional skills as he has navigated the pandemic.

ATHLEISURE MAG: Chef Soogil Lim, tell us about your culinary background.

CHEF SOOGIL LIM: I was born and raised in South Korea and was originally going to major in Biology. I became interested in the culinary world when I went into a restaurant and saw a sign that said “Make People Happy.”

It prompted me to research culinary education and enter the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY. Upon graduation, I began my training in French cuisine at Restaurant Daniel, one of New York’s most acclaimed fine dining restaurants. Through my hard work and dedication, I was able to move up the ranks and become the first Korean Sous Chef in the restaurant’s history, which I am very proud of. After working for 7 years under Chef Daniel Boulud (three as Sous Chef) and honing my French technique, I became Executive Chef at the modern Korean restaurant Hanjan, where I ran the kitchen for 4 years. For my own restaurant, which opened in 2018, I decided to blend the two culinary backgrounds I love: French and Korean.

AM: What led you to creating your French-Korean restaurant, Soogil that is located in the East Village?

CHEF SL: For my restaurant Soogil, I wanted to combine my Korean background with my French culinary training to create a harmony of the food cultures of France and Korea. The East Village is home to restaurants serving cuisines from various countries. Korean, Japanese and Chinese restaurants are concentrated on and around St. Mark’s Place, and Indian restaurants lined up along 6th Street. The Momofuku empire began as a small noodle bar in the East Village, too, and there are also several Michelin-starred restaurants - with such diverse cuisines and culinary styles, it’s a great area for dining out and for Soogil to be part of.

AM: What culinary synergy is there between French and Korean food that really plays well together?

CHEF SL: I grew up in Korea and came to America to learn French cuisine. The keyword of Korean food is fermentation - soy sauce, gochujang (red hot pepper paste), soybean paste, and kimchi are all fermented. And the keyword for French cuisine is technique. Classic techniques that have been developed after the French Revolution form the basis of today's French cuisine. Since Korean cooking is based on fermented food, which is closely related to healthy eating, it has been rediscovered and popularized by chefs but not as refined technique-wise. French cooking techniques help me elevate the food and take it to another level.

AM: When did you launch and what can guests expect when they come to dine at Soogil?

CHEF SL: We opened Soogil in January 2018. At first, we started with small plates and more casual food and then added a tasting menu showcasing my own creative style of cooking. During the pandemic, there have been many restrictions on operating restaurants, so right now we are focusing only on our 5-course tasting menu (some of the tasting menu dishes are also available a la carte). The menu is seasonal, and we also offer special tasting menus for holidays like Thanksgiving, Christmas, Mother’s Day, etc. that have been very popular.

AM: Can you talk about the aesthetics of your restaurant for those that will be dining inside?

CHEF SL: When you open the large orange French door and enter Soogil you will first notice how cozy, stylish and lovely the space is. There is a striking light fixture with round glass spheres. The tables and chairs are all made of oak with a light finish, as is our bar. On the wall, there are three original works by artist Suzy Taekyung Kim. The title of this group of paintings is “Dream Incubator” and the artist says of them: “With our busy, hectic lives, we tend to miss the moments of pure happiness and hope. This series is a gentle reminder for us to pause, look up, keep your silver lining moments and dream on!” I’d like to offer such moments of pure happiness to guests who visit our restaurant in their busy daily life as well.

AM: When creating this menu, can you tell us about where inspiration for your dishes came from?

CHEF SL: The basis of my inspiration is memories. I remember the flavors, taste of specific dishes that created good memories with my family or friends when I was a child. The food that’s part of those memories is the most inspiring element for creating my own dishes.

Inspiration is everywhere in my daily life. I love traveling, eating, dining and tasting local fruits and vegetables. When I travel anywhere, I love to go to the local supermarket. Also, in restaurant kitchens in New York, chefs of various ethnicities work together. They look at the same ingredients but look at them differently - and often times, the inspiration comes from working together and combining different ideas.

AM: What are 3 appetizers and/or desserts that we should try at Soogil?

CHEF SL: Sunchoke Velouté highlights the natural sweetness of sunchoke, set off by tangy goat cheese, crispy brioche and bacon.

The Scallop is a complex dish featuring sea scallops crusted with a blend of gochujang (traditional Korean red chili paste), bacon, garlic bread crumbs and butter on a skewer alternating with roasted salsify over a salad of frisee, blood orange and Korean pear for a touch of crunch.

Jenga Tower is our signature dessert and a lot of fun. It’s composed of “churros” stacked on top of one another like a Jenga Tower and topped with black sesame gelato and sweet Korean seven grain powder sprinkled on top. The slightly chewy interior and crunchy, crisp exterior work well with the gelato and you can pull out the sticks as if playing Jenga and dip them into the gelato – it’s a playful way to finish your meal.

AM: What are 3 signature dishes that you suggest that we should enjoy?

CHEF SL: Nurungji Gras is my signature dish that combines foie gras, one of France’s finest delicacies, with one of Korea’s beloved traditional dishes, nurungji, the thin crust of scorched rice at the bottom of the cooking pot after rice is cooked. The golden-brown nurungji is served in a mini skillet, layered with shaved brussels sprouts, caramelized onions, poached peach and pickled beech mushroom and topped with sauteed foie gras. We pour a soy mushroom sauce tableside for a special finishing touch, which guests love. The dish offers a wonderful interplay of flavors and textures with the crispy, sticky and nutty nurungji and the rich buttery foie gras.

Uni Bowl combines sea urchin and smoked salmon roe over rice flecked with Korean seaweed. In each bite you get the rice, uni, roe and wild seaweed (gamtae), getting all the textures and flavors together.

The Short Rib is my take on the traditional Galbi, Korean grilled beef short ribs. With its tender meat, well-seasoned marinade and touch of sweetness, it is a widely loved Korean BBQ dish. It’s my favorite as well, I marinate the short ribs in a blend of soy sauce, Korean pear, onions, and garlic. They are then grilled and served with sweet potato puree and pickled chanterelles.

AM: What are 3 cocktails that you suggest we should have when visiting?

CHEF SL: Yuzu Spice made with sake infused with 7 spices, yuzu and lime is Soogil's signature cocktail. It has a kick to it thanks to the spices and pairs well with the food.

French 108E is a blend of the Korean spirit soju, elderflower, lemon, sparkling wine, homemade omija syrup. Also called schisandra or magnolia berry, omija is used in traditional Korean medicine because of its antioxidant properties.

Rosso Negroni - licorice meets Campari for a bittersweet drink made with licorice infused soju, Campari and sweet vermouth.

AM: What vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free friendly items do you have?

CHEF SL: Due to pandemic limitations and the size of our kitchen, we are only able to accommodate vegan and vegetarian requests with some advance notice - we are serving the tasting menu right now but are happy to adjust it for any requests with one day notice.

AM: During COVID-19, many restaurants have had to pivot on how they serve the guests and neighborhoods with pickups, delivery, reduce indoor dining, outdoor dining etc – what have you been doing during this time?

CHEF SL: The pandemic opened doors to various roles I hadn’t known before as my life as a chef had only consisted of cooking. This year I also became a carpenter building our outdoor dining structure, a dishwasher (keeping six feet apart was impossible in our small kitchen) and a delivery man. With fear over COVID-19, many people stayed home. I knew that many needed meals and I would have to get past my own fears. When we had to shut down the restaurant in March, my wife and I launched a new concept, the virtual Chan by Soogil, offering traditional Korean home-style meals and kits in a pivot from our original French-Korean cuisine and tasting menus to more comforting home-cooking.

As outdoor dining reopened, we were able to bring back my signature tasting menu. However, some people still preferred delivery, even for the tasting menu. While initially skeptical, I realized how meaningful it would be for our customers to have these tastings delivered. I had never imagined delivering tasting menus, but I’m happy I can bring our customers some joy during this time.

I am forever grateful to those who have stuck with us through this - they are the reason I can stay in the kitchen and continue to be a chef.

IG @SoogilNYC

@SoogilLim

@ChanBySoogil

PHOTOGRAPHY CREDIT | PG 72 + 78 Lily Brown | PG 74 Soogil | PG 77 Michael Tulipan |

Read the Apr Issue #64 of Athleisure Mag and see The Art of the Snack | Soogil in mag.